Pruning: The Shape of Gardening

Pruning is not as mysterious or as difficult as it might seem. Learn a few basics and you’ll be able to easily manage most of your own pruning chores.

  • Topic: Pruning
  • Author: Mary Ann Walz
  • Keywords: pruning, new growth, growth habits, cuts, pruning tool, tools
  • Date: October 2006

© All articles are copyrighted by High Country Gardens. Republication is prohibited without Permission.

Pruning is not as mysterious or as difficult as it might seem. Learn a few basics and you’ll be able to easily manage most of your own pruning chores.

Why Prune

There is a purpose to pruning and it’s done—

  • to encourage new growth
  • to direct new growth
  • to fix existing growth problems
  • to prevent future growth problems

Whatever the reason for pruning it’s important to understand the growth habits of each plant. You also need to determine what you want the plant to do before making any cuts. Most of us don’t do topiary anymore, but some of the same techniques still apply.

Pruning Tools

The proper pruning tool will make the job much easier. If a cut is proving to be difficult, the tool might not be the correct one. All tools come in a variety of shapes and sizes but there are three main categories.

Pruning shears come with anvil cut or bypass cut blades. Either type works well for small diameter branches.
Loppers are long handled shears have give more leverage and are capable of cutting somewhat larger branches.
Pruning saws are used for branches too big for shears or loppers.
You can even find tiny nippers for pruning bonsai specimens.

Pruning Methods

The approaches to pruning vary widely from simply pinching buds to cutting out large branches.

  • Pinching involves the removal of new growth that is getting too long or heading in the wrong direction. You might be able to pinch with your fingers or possibly need to use hand pruners. Frequent pinching usually means less need for heavy pruning later.
  • Shearing involves removing new growth to create a desired shape. The cut heals easily and a new bud will form for future growth.
  • Cuts on old wood should be made at a slight angle above a bud. The cut should not be too close to the bud and should be at a bud that points to the outer part of the tree or shrub.
  • Large limbs should be removed with two cuts. Make the first cut far enough from the trunk so there can be no damage to the trunk if the branch splits. Once the majority of the branch is removed, the remainder can be cut off relatively close to the trunk. Be sure to cut just beyond where the branch attaches to a larger branch or trunk; do not flush cut!

Resources

Pruning techniques for plants can be pretty specialized, again depending on the plant and the desired results. Lots of resources exist that will give you information for specific plants.

Cooperative Extension Service is part of the university in your state. The staff produces lots of technical pamphlets that provide detailed information about pruning. The services are free. They often have a Master Gardener program that includes a component on pruning.

Botanical gardens or arboretums often have resources that will give information on pruning techniques. Sometimes they have classes on pruning.

Nurseries that sell trees should have arborists on staff to help with your pruning questions.