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Zeroing in on ZonesA woman recently moved to Santa Fe from San Diego and wrote in asking if zones really mattered. "I've never paid any attention to them. Should I? Do I have to?" she wondered.
© All articles are copyrighted by High Country Gardens. Republication is prohibited without Permission. A woman recently moved to Santa Fe from San Diego and wrote in asking if zones really mattered. “I’ve never paid any attention to them. Should I? Do I have to?” she wondered. I’ve had this conversation before with new arrivals; my standard reply is: “If I didn’t, I wouldn’t have a garden.” Then again, tending to zone designation doesn’t guarantee success in the garden. There are lots of other considerations. I didn’t want to diffuse her enthusiasm too quickly, though. “I see plants in your catalog marked Zones 4 to 9. What exactly does that mean?” she wanted to know. It’s simple: if temperatures are too cold for a plant, that plant won’t make it through the winter. The plants have to be equipped to produce the correct chemical processes needed to ensure winter cold-hardiness. Santa Fe’s zone is 5; or 4 and 6, depending on where plants are placed, along a south facing wall, in the shade on the northern side of the house or out in the open. It can get tricky. Below is a basic hardiness zone chart with degrees in Fahrenheit. The zones refer to minimal air temperatures reached during the winter.
If a freak cold snap hits one night in a warm climate, it doesn’t mean all the plants will die. Low temperatures may cause cellular damage, but it may not be fatal if the low temperatures only last a day or two. Still considering zones is a good idea if you want to save most of your garden. |
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