Pruning

In her designs for living systems, Mother Nature helps keep the health of the forest in line by pruning the trees. She does this in many ways...

Felco Pruner #6
Item # 99767 		Felco Pruner #6

each $49.95
  • Topic: Pruning
  • Author: Mary Ann Walz
  • Keywords: trees, pruning, Pruning, branches, shrubs, vines
  • Date: February 2003

© All articles are copyrighted by High Country Gardens. Republication is prohibited without Permission.

In her designs for living systems, Mother Nature helps keep the health of the forest in line by pruning the trees. She does this in many ways. Forest fires thin the thick stands of timber, ice storms prune dead or weakened branches, and animals harvest small branches for food or shelter. Even the bark beetle epidemic we are experiencing in the Southwest is but one of Nature’s ways of pruning stands of Pinon and Ponderosa Pines that have become too thick. There is a necessity to remove old growth in order to make room for new growth.

We mimic some of these natural pruning techniques when we take saw or shears to trim our trees, shrubs or vines. We should approach pruning from the standpoint of determining what objective we want to achieve. Among the reasons for pruning are to increase fruit or bloom production, maintain the size, maintain the shape or appearance, or improve the health and vigor of the tree or shrub. Accordingly, pruning cuts should be made to achieve one of these goals.

It is easiest to learn good pruning techniques by observing and then helping an expert. Pruning workshops can often be found at your County Cooperative Extension Service, at an arboretum or botanical garden, with garden groups, or at community colleges. The second choice is to get a good book on pruning that has lots of illustrations for the type of pruning you want to do. Lacking either of the above, you can do some simple pruning by following these simple principles.

Use the proper tool to make cuts. Pruners are used for smaller cuts while a pruning saw is for larger cuts. Make sure tools are sharp so cuts are smooth.

Experts are pretty evenly divided on whether or not to use a sealer or paint over the wounds. Larger cuts are more likely to benefit from sealer than small cuts.

Limbs should be removed back to the main trunk or to a large branch. Do not make cuts in the middle of a branch. Cuts can be made at the ground to remove suckers or unwanted growth in shrubs. Branches can be trimmed back to a point above a promising bud that is on the outside edge of the branch.

Pruning should be done to remove dead or damaged branches, to remove branches that cross or rub against other branches, to open up the inside of a tree, and to remove any growth that presents a safety hazard to people or structures.

It is generally best to start pruning gently when a tree is young and continuing on a regular basis rather than waiting until the tree is mature and then needing to take drastic measures.

Prune to compliment the natural growth habit of your tree.

Prune according to where you live and the kind of weather conditions. For example, in hot and humid areas good ventilation is necessary so trees and shrubs should have fewer branches. In drier climates, thicker growth is preferred.

Time your pruning according to your climate and the kind of pruning you intend to perform. Late winter is when most pruning is done. In spring, prune out any branches damaged by ice wind or snow. Summer is the time to shear plants to maintain a particular shape. If in doubt, contact you County Extension Agent.

When done correctly, pruning is one of the best things you can do for your plants. Don’t be afraid to try it. Just look at examples of the same kind of tree that has pleasing and natural shapes and try to follow that lead. Learn from pruning mistakes of others such as trees that have been topped or given a crew cut. Above all else, don’t be afraid to ask questions if you’re not sure of what you should do.