Winter Watering

Plant loss in the winter is more commonly caused by lack of water than by freezing temperatures.

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  • Topics: Watering, Winter Care
  • Author: Cindy Bellinger
  • Keywords: plant loss, water, winter, Winter Care
  • Date: December 2002

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This winter might be wetter than last year. Let’s hope so. But in the event that the rain and snow levels aren’t quite what the Western garden expects or needs, then you’re looking at doing some supplemental watering over the winter.

Amazing as it is, plant loss in the winter is more commonly caused by lack of water than by freezing temperatures. If properly cared for, cold-hardy plants can make it through brutally cold weather. They are adaptable. But they can’t go without water.

Even dormant plants still need moisture to maintain their physiological and biochemical changes that make them tolerant of the cold. The rule of thumb is to water thoroughly once every 2-3 weeks through the fall. Then depending on the amount of precipitation and severity of cold temperatures, keep up this watering schedule throughout the winter months. In some places the ground is often too solidly frozen in late Dec. and Jan. to water, but begins to thaw enough by mid Feb. to resume supplemental irrigation.

Though it may look like nothing is really happening in the garden, plants are busy producing high concentrations of dissolved sugars, amino acids and other soluble organic molecules. Within cells a higher concentration of chemically-bound water is essential for these processes to occur. This chemically bound water also helps maintain the elasticity of the protoplasm, or the liquid interior of a cell. And this is what makes a plant remain resilient during freezing temperatures

Yes, it’s all very detailed and scientific, and botanists continue researching the cold-hardy factor in plants. But for us common backyard gardeners, all we really need to know is watering is one way to assure that roots won’t try out.

Try to water mid-day so the moisture has time to soak into the ground before freezing again at night. Even if soil is frozen, it will absorb water, often dissolving the ice enough to help aerate the ground.

When watering woody plants that have been planted in the last two seasons, the most important area to water is away from the trunk. Find the distance halfway between the plant and the outer stretch of the branches to approximately one foot beyond the “drip line.” It’s this area that needs to be kept moist, as the root hairs spread horizontally. Doing this also prevents water from building up near the trunk of the plant where it can freeze and damage the bark.

For those of us who have planted bulbs this fall or in past years, it is essential that we keep them well irrigated when the fall and winter weather is dry. This is when the root growth occurs and a critical time for adequate soil moisture. Occasional deep soakings during a dry spring when the flowers and foliage emerge is also necessary for a good show of flowers. Prolonged dryness from fall through spring will result in a poor showing of flowers the following spring.

In full sun flower beds, where moist soil repeatedly freezes and thaws, heaving of shallowly rooted plants will occasionally take place. Heaved plants can fracture taproots as well as lateral roots, sometimes resulting in elevated crowns that can quickly dry out a plant. When plants heave from the soil push them back in and mulch generously to shade the soil and keep it frozen, thus preventing the freeze/thaw cycle.

But don’t despair. It’s not all gloomy. Just remember your garden is a living entity year round and if we get snow and rain this winter, great. If not, give your garden a touch of extra tender care and come springtime it will reward you with healthy, strong and happy plants.