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Caring for Conifers in the Santa Fe AreaSelecting and planting conifers for high altitudes.
© All articles are copyrighted by High Country Gardens. Republication is prohibited without Permission. Large conifers are some of the most important plants in our landscapes. Their use as year-round accents as well as visual and wind barrier provide the basic structure of the garden. They are usually low maintenance plants. And rather than focus on how many pinons are dying in our midst, let’s center some attention on how to select and care for healthy trees—and keep them healthy. SelectionChoosing the right conifer to meet the site and function it will serve is critical for success. The size at maturity, the exposure to wind and sun, the soil type, watering routine and surrounding plantings must be taken into consideration. Growth rates are relatively slower than deciduous plants therefore usually slow to establish. This affects the decision as to what size to start with. Knowing the tree’s natural habitat will help determine what conditions the conifer will require. The higher elevation Pines, Spruces and Firs generally have shallow limited root systems and could be susceptible to blow over. Lower elevation Pines, Junipers, Cypresses and Cedars have large root systems and are more xeric. Most conifers prefer well-drained soils. Junipers are probably most adaptable to clay soil, but not exclusively. Evidence shows that small container plants establish quicker than large plants. Ball and burlap will take more time to reestablish the root system. PlantingThe general recommendations for planting conifers is the same as for other woody plants like digging your hole twice the width and the same depth as the root ball. The plant should end up at original soil level. Soil amendment is necessary to create a transition zone for roots to the native soil. It also helps to hold moisture and add soil nutrition. Some large conifers such as Spruces and Firs would benefit from acidification. We suggest using one part Soil Mender Blend to two parts existing soil for the backfill. Yum Yum Mix added to the backfill would greatly increase the probability of success, also. Container plants may require a vertical cut into the root ball to encourage new root growth and prevent root binding. After removing the tree from the container, if the roots are densely packed or encircling the root ball, make 3 to 5 vertical cuts 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Ball and Burlap (B&B) plants are often enclosed by a wire basket. Do not remove burlap or basket. After placing and positioning the tree to match original level, several cuts made through the burlap may be beneficial. Backfill until tree is stable, then remove all burlap and twine from the top of the root ball. Finish backfilling and create a water-well as needed, then mulch the surface soil. WateringA newly planted tree needs to be watered immediately, followed by an application of Superthrive and Sea-Com. During the heat of summer a new plant may require watering two or three times a week for the first month and possibly twice a week for the first growing season. A smaller plant will take less water more frequently while a large tree takes a larger volume less frequently. A rule of thumb is the plant will use two times the volume of the root ball in water per week during the summer season. If drip irrigation is used it is important that one or more emitters is placed right above the root ball. Long deep watering is better than short (shallow) frequent watering (i.e. two to three hours one or two times a week). Spruces and Firs generally need more water than Pines, Junipers, Cypresses and Cedars. In the fall reduce the watering frequency. Once a month watering in winter is important particularly during warm dry winters. Evergreen plants can actively transpire in winter. Increase watering schedule in spring until once a week watering in summer. Smaller trees may need more than this. Xeric species of Pine may take three to five years to be fully xeric. This means twice a month watering for a healthy plant. Xeric Junipers and Cypresses may establish in two or three years. Spruces and Firs probably take three to five years to establish, and will need weekly watering once established. FertilizationConifers in general require very little fertilization. Conifers are sensitive to over-fertilization particularly to nitrogen, which can lead to weak growth. Spring and fall applications may be beneficial. Acidification is sometimes needed. Organic fertilizers are generally safer for use on conifers due to their lower nitrogen content, slower release and soil building properties. Organic mulches also will help build soil and hold moisture. PestsConifers are usually pest free. Some problems are seasonal such as scale, pinetip moth and red spider mites. Unhealthy weakened trees are always more susceptible to disease and insects. The current drought related infestations are not the norm. |
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