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Pruning is not as mysterious or as difficult as it might seem. Learn a few basics and you’ll be able to easily manage most of your own pruning chores.

Why Prune

There is a purpose to pruning and it's done--

• to encourage new growth
• to direct new growth
• to fix existing growth problems
• to prevent future growth problems

Whatever the reason for pruning it's important to understand the growth habits of each plant. You also need to determine what you want the plant to do before making any cuts. Most of us don't do topiary anymore, but some of the same techniques still apply.

Pruning Tools

The proper pruning tool will make the job much easier. If a cut is proving to be difficult, the tool might not be the correct one. All tools come in a variety of shapes and sizes but there are three main categories.

• Pruning shears come with anvil cut or bypass cut blades. Either type works well for small diameter branches.
• Loppers are long handled shears have give more leverage and are capable of cutting somewhat larger branches.
• Pruning saws are used for branches too big for shears or loppers.

You can even find tiny nippers for pruning bonsai specimens.

Pruning Methods

The approaches to pruning vary widely from simply pinching buds to cutting out large branches.

• Pinching involves the removal of new growth that is getting too long or heading in the wrong direction. You might be able to pinch with your fingers or possibly need to use hand pruners. Frequent pinching usually means less need for heavy pruning later.
• Shearing involves removing new growth to create a desired shape. The cut heals easily and a new bud will form for future growth.
• Cuts on old wood should be made at a slight angle above a bud. The cut should not be too close to the bud and should be at a bud that points to the outer part of the tree or shrub.
• Large limbs should be removed with two cuts. Make the first cut far enough from the trunk so there can be no damage to the trunk if the branch splits. Once the majority of the branch is removed, the remainder can be cut off relatively close to the trunk. Be sure to cut just beyond where the branch attaches to a larger branch or trunk; do not flush cut!

Resources

Pruning techniques for plants can be pretty specialized, again depending on the plant and the desired results. Lots of resources exist that will give you information for specific plants.

Cooperative Extension Service is part of the university in your state. The staff produces lots of technical pamphlets that provide detailed information about pruning. The services are free. They often have a Master Gardener program that includes a component on pruning.

Botanical gardens or arboretums often have resources that will give information on pruning techniques. Sometimes they have classes on pruning.

Nurseries that sell trees should have arborists on staff to help with your pruning questions.



When to Prune
By Cindy Bellinger and Mary Ann Walz

A definitive consensus hasn't been met about which season is the best to prune because all trees and shrubs have unique characteristics that determine how and when they should be pruned.

But generally, most pruning is done in fall or late winter when plants are dormant and not in a growth stage.

Spring is the time to correct any damage that may have occurred during the winter months. But late spring is the worst time to heavily prune a deciduous plant--when it's leafed out and putting on new shoots. Pruning a plant when its energy is directed toward growth can shock a plant enough to cause dieback.

Early summer is the time to prune spring blooming shrubs such as lilacs so the shrub will have time to develop new growth which provides the buds which will bloom the following spring. Suckers should also be trimmed at this time.

Winter and early spring is also the best time to prune because most plants are dormant and their energy levels for defense and recovery are highest. They are not expending energy to grow.

David's Helpful Hints: Pruning Old Wood vs. New Growth

A common question is: "When do I prune my butterfly bush and my lilacs?" The answer has to do with determining a plant's old wood and new growth.

Fruit trees produce on old wood. But remember that mature fruit trees have different pruning requirements than young ones. Your local Cooperative Extension Service office is the best place to find specific fruit tree pruning literature for your region.

Old Wood
This is wood that is at least a year old. If you have shrubs such as honey suckle, snowball bush, lilac, Genista, forsythia and crape myrtle the flowers in spring will occur on the old wood.

New Wood
This is wood put on during a current growing season and includes Russian Sage, potentilla, blue mist spirea, summer blooming butterfly bush and roses.

Pruning hint: Pruning paint is not recommended to seal a fresh cut. The sap from the plant will become its own sealer.

Plant Combinations

Forstiera Neomexicana is a deciduous, native shrub that develops great character with age. It can be grown into a dense hedge, or pruned to form a twisting, multi-stemmed small tree. The beautiful whitish bark accentuates the bright yellow fall foliage. Female plants produce considerable quantities of blue-black berries that are eaten by birds. Male and female plants are indistinguishable as seedlings, so order three or more to ensure berry set.

Rhus aromatica Gro-Low ‘Gro-Low’ is perfect as a woody groundcover for covering flat and sloping areas. In late spring “Gro-Low” is covered with profuse tiny yellow flowers. The summer foliage is shiny and dark green and turns orange, red and burgundy in fall. Grows readily in all types of soil including clay. Zones 4-9.

Gardening Lingo

Cold snap: A sudden drop in temperature, usually during the spring and fall often below freezing, and may cause damage to already blooming and leafing plants.

Cold-hardy: This refers to perennial flowers, shrubs and trees that can survive cold and/or subfreezing temperatures and return for another growing season.

Chlorotic Foliage: A condition in which the newer leaves of a plant turn yellow during the growing season. An iron deficiency or lack of some other mineral is often the cause.

View all the Gardening Lingo from our Monthly Ezines

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